Sunday, March 23, 2014

Vacation 2014: Bequia

As if it were not already painfully obvious that our time together on the ship was coming to a close, today we had to turn in our immigration forms for our return to Barbados Saturday morning. With each passing day, the reality of home, work, and winter gets a little closer. But that is something to ponder on the plane, today our little group is invading Bequia.
It's not all fun and games...
As has become our routine, I met Jay for coffee. We watched the morning yoga group go through their paces. When the bartender arrived, we had the first of our daily bloody maries. John soon joined us and we headed down for breakfast before exploring Bequia. Although I have never heard of this island, apparently there is quite a large contingency of European ex-pats who call it home for part of the year.
The town itself was very "non-touristy." Not a Sunglass Hut, Little Switzerland, or t-shirt shop to be seen. There was, however, a lovely coffee shop. John had been hankering for some real coffee, so while he had coffee and cake, we sampled some of the local beer before walking to the end of the harbor walk. 

The harbor walk



Bromeliads in the trees
On the way back to the center of town, we ran into Kim, our friend who is one of the owners of Concierge Travel. Like us, he was feeling a little peckish, so we turned back along the harbor walk and headed over to a place that specializes in Lobster Pizza. Silly me, I thought, lobster pizza would be incredibly heavy and rich, so I suggested that perhaps we should get only one large pizza for the 6 of us. Kim laughed at me and ordered two large pizzas. And even though we had all just eaten breakfast only a few hours earlier, there was not a slice of pizza left when we were finished.

The view from the restaurant


The restaurant also had free wi-fi, so we all took a moment to post a few "wish your here" pictures on Facebook for our friends back home. Thanks to Kim and Bob for the excellent lunch suggestion.

As we headed back to the harbor entrance, we decided to take a van around the island and see the sights. By chance, we ran into Brian and Martin who happily joined our tour. The island is not very large so our tour lasted about an hour, but with such great company it was a fun afternoon.


BFFs - Glenn and John

The Royal Clipper at anchor
Our longitude and latitude

Glenn, Jay, John, Bob, Brian, Tom, and Martin blocking the view

The requisite selfie
 As much as we enjoyed our visit on Bequia, we couldn't dawdle. There was yet another event to prepare for - the Captain's Drag Dinner. While I thought we were sitting this event out, apparently the siren song of makeup and hair was just too strong for John to resist. The makeup room opened at 4:00, which meant quite a few "lovely" ladies in full face joined us for pre-dinner cocktails.







The best part of the Captain's Dinner is that everyone makes their entrance by coming down the grand staircase to the dining room. Once everyone was seated, it was like every other dinner on a cruise ship - overdressed women accompanied by their proud husbands. Well, only if you squint your eyes and hold your head just right.





And, after all this fun, there is still the white party for a little dancing before bed.

It was the best day ever.

Vacation 2014: Tobago Cays

Our tender / water taxi
After our fantastic day in Grenada and a really late night dancing in our pirate costumes, we were looking forward to a little down time on the Beach - or at least I was. My plan was to spread a towel on a lounge chair in a shady spot and get some reading and writing done. That may sound a bit antisocial, but sometimes a little quiet time is required between all the parties and functions. In this case, the best laid plans did not come to pass.

Upon arriving at the beach, it was evident that we would be roughing it. There were no chairs, no umbrellas, and no cocktail servers. There were, however lovely trees under which we could spread our towels. And, while I am not above sitting on the sand, it was not very comfortable. After a few minutes with our towels, Jay and I wondered over to the other side of the Cay for a look around. John had already returned to the ship.

Stop kicking sand on my towel, you bully.

All I need is a cold Corona.

The wild side of the island
When we got back to our towels, it was lunch time and the crew had set up a nice barbecue on the beach. Hamburgers, chicken breast, and pork ribs all made for a wonderful lunch. Sadly, my few minutes at a picnic table in the sun resulted in yet another touch of sunburn on those spots I could not reach with the sunscreen. It is easy to forget the sun is really strong in the tropics - even when it's a breezy 82 degrees.

After lunch we all piled into the surprisingly cool water for a good soaking before heading back to the ship to prepare for the retro tea dance. This dance is one of the mainstays of the Concierge party agenda, featuring music and costumes from the 70's and 80's. And really, who doesn't like a good dance party - especially one where you know all the words to all the songs and the drinks are free?

1970's Glam

John and Kitty

Tom, John, and Glenn
It's all about the go-go boys in heels

Tea dance ended just in time to grab one last cocktail for sail away and sunset watching. It was a beautiful end to a easy day of vacation. But, as with all vacations the realization that we only had a few more days at sea made the sunset a little bittersweet.

Goodbye Tobago Cay

No filters, really, it was this beautiful.

This stop was proving to be one requiring more than a few costume changes. We still had dinner and a Country and Western party before the day would be officially over.

These cowboys forgot their clothes....

Nice brand....
Next stop, Bequia.

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Vacation 2014: Grenada - The Spice Island

John
After breakfast we lined up for the tender to check out St. Georges, Grenada. As we waited, John, Jay and I joked about John's tendency of stepping off the ship, getting through customs control, spending about 30-60 minutes ashore, then heading back to the ship for a steam or massage. Luckily, as we passed through the visitor's area, before John could change his mind, we were approached by one of the many van drivers grouped around the port exit and decided to have an adventure.


Glenn
Jay
We settled on a ridiculously inexpensive price for a 2-3 hour tour. After the Barbados adventure I was eager for a repeat performance. First stop was a spice shop. A decidedly shy and possibly uninterested sales lady took us through the spice demonstration. We got to see what the spices look like before they are processed and had a few tastes of raw cinnamon and cocoa. Just enough to loosen our wallets to buy bags full of spices that will more than likely still be in my pantry when it is cleaned out after my death: tumeric, paprika, cinnamon, nutmeg, bay leaves, curry, mace, nutmeg jam, and hot sauce. So much for that extra half pound I had in my luggage weight limit.



Next stop, Arrendale falls where we were greeted by the "banana women." Yep, that's what they called themselves. We were greeted by smiling women with fruit on their heads asking if the "handsome gentlemen wanted to take pictures with the banana women?" How can one say no to that?

$2

$2

$2
Then there was the $2 ticket to see the falls. We laughed about the touristy commercialism, but then we saw the gardens leading to the falls. The gardens were both peaceful and spectacular consisting of multiple small trails highlighting blooming plants native to the island, huge specimen plants, and trees draped in vines and orchids (not yet in bloom).

 








It was like our own private garden, but with jumping boys. For $20 USD these jumping boys would climb to the top of the falls and jump into the pool below. When the high pressure salesman / jumper approached me and told me the price, my response was that for $20 I would gladly jump off the cliff into the pool myself. John, however, decided to practice his generosity and gave the $20 to the local jumpers instead of his friend. This is what John got for his money.




On the way back to the van, John showed us a spot he had found along a trail that made him feel peaceful and happy. We all took a moment to enjoy the view from the secluded, trail side bench and the feeling of peace emanating from the gardens. We were soon once again stimulating the local economy through our support for necklace makers, spice stringers, and professional smilers.

Our next stop was the top of the volcano to see the lake that supplies St. Georges with its fresh water. We just started driving up and around and back and forth around blind turns and always up through the cool misty rainforest. Peter, our driver, turned off the van's air conditioner and opened all the windows. The temperature continued to drop as we advanced up the side of the volcano. Upon arriving at the top, to our surprise (not), there was yet another gauntlet of fruit-hatted women and spice salesmen to traverse before paying another $2 USD for the pleasure of seeing the lake and climbing to the top of the volcano's rim.

The lake was a little disappointing, but after a 10 minute hike we arrived at a rickety lookout platform that was still under construction (i.e. no handrails) from which you could see a wide swath of the island including the Atlantic shore. I jumped up the stairs to the top of the platform. John gingerly made his way up. Jay stayed on firm ground. 

That's it - the lake.

He sang us a song with lyrics including,"they are so handsome, they must be movie stars."


It's safer down here.

But so wonderful up here.
From the top of the tower a strong, cool breeze laden with the aromas of the cool moist rain forest lifted our spirits. It was a pretty awesome experience. I took a moment for myself as John made his way down to fully appreciate the moment and make a dedication of happiness.


The hike back down was a bit more energetic and less whiny than the hike up. After a bit more local economic stimulation, we descended back through the rainforest and discussed with our driver the possibility of finding a local dining establishment that served traditional dishes. We were soon dropped off in front of a harbor-side seafood grill.

Only the best
Beside seafood, chicken, beef, and pork, there was also armadillo, possum, and iguana to choose from. As I have said, I am quite "epicurious," but I was a little worried that I would end up with an upset stomach by going too exotic. So we all chose from the list of curry specials. My curried fish stew was delicious. The fish was White Marlin, which I think of as a sport fish rather than an eating fish. The texture was a bit like a tenderized pork cutlet, but much more tender. One more fish checked off the "to eat" list.

Food Porn! Curried fish stew with yams and rice

Jay got the whole plate - I think it was pork.
In the harbor across from the restaurant was a monstrously huge yacht - I talking James Bond Villain Huge. Due to the distance, it was difficult to gauge the yacht's size accurately. It was not until the "boat garage" opened to lift in a 20 foot speed boat that we could appreciate the unimaginable wealth required to purchase and maintain such a large ship. We asked the waiter if he knew who owned the ship. Apparently, a Mr David Geffen is the proud owner. Well done Mr. Geffen, well done.


After a great day on the spice island, a delicious local meal, and a harrowing walk through a tunnel shared by cars and pedestrians, a stop at the mall, and a tender ride we were back on our ship.

Two-way car traffic, no guard rails, no safety, but thrilling nonetheless
Later at the sunset / sail away party I overheard John describing our day as the best day ever. I can't wait for tomorrow.



The sunset party is quickly becoming one of my favorite times of day on this trip.