Friday, October 14, 2011

Out and About in Singapore

During our rainy Wednesday, I chatted with Dad to let him know that I wanted to get out of the house on Thursday and do something.  You may have gathered by now, that as an international traveler, my dad is a bit of an amateur. In trying to get along and not be any trouble, when you ask what he wants to do, his response is “it doesn’t matter.” So Thursday morning I told him that I was planning to go to Chinatown and do some shopping and then go to the Singapore National Orchid garden.  His response was that he did that last time we were here. I was quick to respond that I did not fly to the other side of the world to sit in a condominium all day and that I wanted to get out and see some stuff. He was welcome to do what he wanted.

In hindsight, that may have been a little snappy, but I had not gotten much sleep the night before.  Oz had a nightmare around midnight and I was awoken by a three year old screaming, “No mama – don’t want!” over and over.  I thought that perhaps he had gotten his arm stuck in his convertible bed or something, so after 30 seconds or so, I rolled up off my pad on the living room floor and swooped in for a super hero uncle rescue.  However, Oz would not awaken. It was a little like a sleep walking dream –his eyes were closed and he kept calling out. So, I passed him on to Maryana and Jeff, who also had a difficult time waking him.  After that I was on high alert for the rest of the night and a little punchy Thursday morning. I was in real need for a bit of alone time.

Dad and I breakfasted at the hawker center.  The rhoti prata bread man smiled and waved when I walked past.  I am beginning to feel like a local. When we returned to the condo, Maryana was getting Sawyer ready for a play date.  She and I made a plan to meet in the children’s botanical garden between 2:30 and 3:00.  Dad had to decide, and his decision was to tag along to Chinatown and on to the gardens with me.  On the way to the subway stop, I warned him that I am not an expert on figuring out subway system maps, but with a little patience and time, I would get us where we needed to be. Luckily, I had already plotted our journey – once again thank you internet – so we arrived with little difficulty.  The sun was out, our pockets were full of money, and there was shopping to be done. 



While we were poking through the souvenir shops, I received a text from my brother that if we have time, head to the Maxwell St. hawker center at lunch and look for Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice stall. According to Anthony Bourdain, this stall’s chicken and rice is among one of the 20 things to eat before you die – and you know how I am drawn to a list. So after I picked up some new cologne, I asked the merchant for directions to the center and we were off.   
 


You may remember that dad does not eat chicken – no how, no where, under any circumstances, so I explained to him that he would have to find his own food in the hawker center and that I would meet him by the beer stand at the end of the aisle. He chose some noodles with egg and chili.  When I asked why he chose it, his response was that the stall had forks – I may have failed to mention that dad’s chopstick skills pretty much end at stab (to make sure it is dead) then shove into mouth. 


The chicken and rice was very tender with a subtle flavor. The rice was aromatic and covered with a rendered chicken stock that pulled the entire dish together. There was also a side of clear chicken broth soup that rocked. I think that after a week in Asia, my American pallet is finally cleansed a bit from the flavorful, but sometimes overly salty or sweet foods I am accustomed to at home as I am starting to really taste the simple flavors in the cooking here.  And everything about this dish was simple and subtle.  My soul was soothed by it and the icy cold Tiger beer.  One of the bad things about dad not eating chicken is that we could not share this experience together, but, most likely, he would have only said it was OK.  I, however, thought it was a great success and immediately texted my brother to thank him for the suggestion.  

After lunch, we made one more swing through the gift shops and then headed toward the subway – next stop – botanical gardens. When we were last in Singapore, we toured the orchid gardens in the off season – meaning that the orchids were not in bloom.  It was still quite impressive, but I wanted to give it one more shot during a different time of year. 

It was very hot and we were both a sweaty mess when we arrived at the gardens.  But boy, am I delighted that I stood my ground on this one – the gardens were absolutely amazing!  The colors were vibrant and exciting. The displays were well placed and carefully thought out. I was in gardener’s heaven.  We spent about an hour and a half in the gardens, then hiked back across the botanical park to get to the children’s garden.  Did I mention it was a little hot?  Dad was a trooper, but he was a moist mess when we arrived.





 
The children’s garden was a lovely place with little exhibits along a trail.  In the center was a sand lot and children’s fountain area.  It was a nice respite from the heat and Ozzy had a blast playing with all the other children.  





 Once everyone was refreshed - Maryana called for a maxi-cab and we headed home. Tonight's festivities were still ahead of us.

Family Day in Singapore

The weather was a bit on the iffy side Wednesday, so we stayed a little closer to home.  Maryana and I had sampled the breakfast fare from the Hawker center the day before, so after getting Ozzy off to school, we decided to take dad across the street for some breakfast.  

We took him through the butcher center and vegetable market to give him a flavor of the culture in the area in which Jeff and Maryana live. But, with dad, you never can tell what he is thinking.  He is never impressed and does not provide clues as to if he is interested in anything around him. If he makes a comment, it is usually about how something in a faraway place reminds him of his childhood, his home, or the food his mother cooked when he was a child. It can sometimes be very frustrating – especially when he is bellied up to a $175 dollar piece of beer-fed, hand-rubbed, Wagyu beef and you ask if he likes it – his response is invariably, “It’s alright.”  Arrrgh!    
 
But at least for today, my choices for his breakfast were apparently acceptable: butterfly bread (a bit like a sweet fried dough), toast with coconut jam and butter, rhoti prata bread stuffed with egg and cheese and some curry gravy for dipping, plus a steaming cup of Singaporean coffee sweetened with condensed milk.  He actually asked for a second helping of rhoti prata bread.  From that gold standard – breakfast was a hit.  




Ozzy with his iPad and Uncle Glenn with his book

My new BFF Sawyer - not quite walking, but climbing like a monkey and head butting his new favorite uncle.

I am smitten

 With so much commotion in the house, Jeff has been sneaking out early in the morning and heading to Starbucks to get some work done. So Maryana was left to entertain us throughout the drizzly morning.  In Singapore, cable subscriptions are a la carte. Jeff and Maryana do not watch much television so all channels are kids channels. Therefore, television was not a viable option to keep dad entertained and he is not a reader. I, on the other hand, am pretty self-sufficient in keeping myself busy, so I pulled out my laptop and looked at some Vietnam tours for Saturday. Dad was pretty adamant that he wanted to get out of the city and see the country -side – so I booked us a day long Mekong Delta tour.  He then headed off for an afternoon nap.

Jeff arrived home around 2:00 and started working on dinner.  He had beef tenderloin that he was planning to turn into Super Nachos. He marinated the meat, ground all the peppers for fresh handmade sauces, Maryana whipped up some guacamole and the three of us all stood around in the kitchen laughing and cutting up like old times.  There may have been a mojito or two consumed on the porch as well.

Brotherly love

Tattoo reveal to Ozzy - his reaction - "A Chicken!"

Then he tried to peel it off like a sticker


When dad woke up, it was time for Ozzy’s swim lesson, so we all filed out of the apartment and took up our discreet stations around the pool.  We were an appreciative audience and of course we were all proud of how much energy, effort, and bravery Oz exhibited during his lesson.  Since it was still a little overcast we headed over to the other pool which also has a heated Jacuzzi and water jet massages for a family swim.  Maryana thought that it was a little too chilly for a swim – but she is accustomed to equatorial weather now.  For dad and I 85 degrees is still warm.  Ozzy practiced his new skills and we had an invigorating swim – dipping between the heated Jacuzzi and unheated water jet area.


The rest of the evening was very relaxed.  The super nachos were a big hit.  Dad finally had some food with meat he recognized (i.e. there was no, “what is it” to start the meal), so he dug in with gusto. After dinner there was some fun time with the boys, a little National Geographic channel, and an early night to bed. Good times.



Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Dressed up and Headed to Town

After the terracotta warriors exhibit, dad took a bit of a nap while Jeff played with the boys. It was a happy family afternoon topped off with a long walking tour of the local playgrounds with Ozzy and Sawyer. After a quick fluff and tuck, we were off to downtown for a fancy dinner at Daniel Boulud's new restaurant DB Bistro Moderne located in the shopping center next to the Sands Motel, which has been featured in previous blog updates - the one with the boat on top.

So, in our most casual finery, we slid into a taxi and headed downtown. Even the mall here is a bit intimidating as 16% of Singapore's population consists of those with a net worth of $1 million SGD or greater.



So as we strolled past the Prada, Gucci, Armani, Chanel, et. al. stores for the rich and famous, I felt both a little overwhelmed by all the fashion, but oddly inspired to work just a bit harder for the Yves St. Laurent belt that was calling my name from the display window.

Gucci Display Window - Impressive


The restaurant is very low key and the service was unobtrusive, but spot-on in anticipating our needs. We actually started with an entree that we split and consumed as an appetizer: Wagyu beef (also known as Kobe) with baby carrots and potato frites topped with sauce Bearnaise.  Do I even need to say it?  But OMG that was the most tender beef that has ever passed these lips. We all agreed that if we had to choose either pig or wagyu beef as the only meat we could eat for the rest of our lives, wagyu just may win out. We followed this delectable choice with a few of chef Boulud's signature burgers, while Maryana chose a delicious grilled fois gras - which incidentally is one of my favorite things on earth. The guilt of eating it must add to its deliciousness. But, I digress. The dinner was a hit. I immediately regretted my choice of form fitting dinner attire when I stood up from the table, as we all left fat and happy.


To work off some of the decadence we had consumed, we headed towards the waterfront for a stroll. I know that the Hong Kong harbor is world-famous, but the skyline of Singapore is also quite amazing at night.







Our evening culminated in the nightly sound and light show over the harbor.  I have never seen anything quite like it.  The show was mostly composed of huge sprays of water mist with images projected into them  Sounds pretty simple, but the movement of the water gave the images a blowing, or impressionistic blurring of the edges where the light was refracted into mini rainbows of color. The show ended with Louis Armstrong's What a Wonderful World, which never fails to make me just a bit teary-eyed.

Here is a small video I took that may give you an idea of the show.

The first video shows some of the cool laser effects, the second is part of What a Wonderful World. Enjoy

Breakfast at the Hawker Center and Terracotta Soldiers

Following this morning's thunderstorm, Maryana and I strolled across to the breakfast hawker center and wet market.  Once again, I was treated to a culinary adventure that is unlike anything you can get in the USA. In Asian cultures there does not seem to be much difference between what is eaten in the morning and the rest of the day.  For example, there were lots of noodle soups, curries, and fish stews available for breakfast.  We stuck to a more western style for our choices. We had a selection of steamed buns, prata bread stuffed with egg and cheese, toast sandwiches with butter and jam, noodles with sesame sauce, and some of the most delicious coffee I have had in some time.

Butcher Shop and Wet Market Area
 


Fish heads for fish head stew



Prata Bread - Very thin dough cooked on a flat grill in butter.  We had bread filled with eggs and cheese and another with strawberry jam.  Yum! 

Breakfast hawker center







This stall is like the junk closet that everyone has, but with more stuff. Actually it was like a magic junk closet.  All we asked for was in there - if you knew where to look.


After breakfast we were off to see the terracotta warriors exhibition at the Asian Cultural museum.  We arrived early and had time to stroll through the other exhibits, some of which were very striking. The guided tour started at 12:30 and lasted about an hour. The lights were so low that it was difficult to get good snapshots.





The detail work on these sculptures as well as some of the other artifacts that have been unearthed is awe inspiring. The terracotta warriors are on the list of 100 things to see before you die.  Does seeing an exhibit of 7 or so of the 1500 warriors that have been excavated count for enough to be able to check these off the list as seen. 

Monday, October 10, 2011

Dinner in the Hawker Center

Instead of having food stalls on every street, the Singapore government created centralized street food centers, or hawker centers in residential and business areas around the city.  For $3-5 USD you can get some pretty tasty dishes from around the world, including Indian, Thai, Chinese, and Pakistani. Some of the more exotic dishes, such as seafood can cost quite a bit more. The most famous Chinese hawker center is located across the street from my brother's condominium, so tonight we had boys night out and headed over for some street fare.

Oh My Goodness!  For someone not accustomed to the hawker center, there were lots of people and way too many choices.  However, my brother has his favorites and was on a mission. He was after crabs and one of the best crab restaurants in town is a food stall in this hawker center. They actually close down two days a week to cook the sauce used on the chili crabs. So we picked out some crabs and some sting ray from this stall, I was in charge of getting some beers and procuring a table, and Jeff ran off to bring back some fragrant steamed chicken (a traditional Singaporean dish), beef sate, and some Indian flat bread and curry.  Just like every other American, we settled in to chow down on way too much delicious and spicy food, in an exciting atmosphere with the locals.

The black pepper crab and the chili crab were both outstanding, but messy. I ended up wearing a bit of the sauce by the end of the meal.

I am guessing that this will not be a vacation on which I lose a few pounds. I am going to have to start sucking in my gut when the cameras are pointed my way.

I will eat nearly anything, but fish head stew, may be a bit too exotic to pass these lips.







Great Success!